View of Siena rooftops
Like pretty much every other person on the planet, we love Tuscany. Tuscany has everything going for it: architecture, scenery, food, wine, markets, and art. If you want to rave about narrow streets and yellowing buildings, you can do that. If you want to talk about churches that dazzle, you can do that. If you want to eat some of the best meals of your life ---- truffle flecked pasta, prosciutto with melon, pizza singed on coal burned ovens, fluorescent green olive oil and ciabatta --- you can do that. And, if you want to drink red wines that are earthy, smooth, fruity, or nutty, you can do that. Tuscany is amazing.
The funny thing is that, though we love Tuscany, it took us a long, long time to visit Siena, the second most important city. I think we expected it to be another Florence, another city overrun with tourists, where we wouldn't be able to see the charm through the throngs. But, we did.
The charms of Siena were almost immediately apparent in dull brick red and cobblestone streets, through the meandering alleys, over and across hills and stairs, and under bridges. The Duomo stunned in black and white.
It took us time to come to this city but, once we came, we came again and again.
October 18, 2013
View of Pompeii Amphitheatre
I've never seen a picture of Pompeii that did it justice. In fact, before going to Pompeii, I questioned whether it was worth the time and energy to go there. The architecture looked less impressive than the ancient architecture in Rome at the Pantheon, the Roman Forum, and the Colosseum. The scenery was less stunning than that of the gorgeous blue and yellow Amalfi Coast. But, we went because we were staying in Sorrento, were only 45 minutes away from Pompeii, and it seemed foolish to miss one of Italy's most popular attractions.
Walking through the streets of Pompeii
And, I'll be the first to admit that our pictures don't do this place justice. What's missing from the photography is a sense of the vastness of this place. Pompeii was a living, breathing city with a population of around 10,000 people in about five square miles before 769 AD. To put that into perspective, that's about the population density of New Orleans, Sydney, or Montreal today, and more dense than Miami, Antwerp, and Las Vegas. Of course, our cities today are much larger than five square miles but, when we went there, we could feel how the city once bustled.
Cafe/restaurant; bakery and ovens
We started at the less touristed side of the city, at the point where most of the populace lived, and walked all the way to the main public areas at the far side of the city. Like New York or Sydney or any major city today, Pompeii had places for worship, markets, government buildings, and public arenas and amphitheatres. It had more than 33 bakeries with huge lava mills, turned by donkeys to grind the wheat, and ovens in which the bakers brought out thick flat bread, cut into wedges and sold to the citizens. It had over 200 cafes where Pompeii citizenry --- especially the poor --- sat at long bars to eat from food ladled out of large jars set into the marble counters (kind of like a buffet).
Houses in Pompeii
We walked for hours. Hours and hours. Into and out of houses. Into and out of mansions. Through gardens with fountains. Through gardens with statues of gods and goddesses at the center. Through places where there were vineyards. Into mammoth buildings where judges and politicians discussed and determined the way in which the rest of the Pompeiians should live, while those ordinary citizens went about their business, raising families, improving their homes, and generally living the best lives they could.
Marble and temples
It wasn't long before we realized that these people --- these people who lived over 1,500 years ago --- weren't all that different from us.
September 12, 2013
Street in Prague
We don't often do black and white photography largely because I love color. I love the juxtaposition of bright against light, sky against tree, and strong against weak. One of my all time favorite photo spreads on our site is this one with the children and balloons, done in black and white, with pops of color, because the color almost springs out of the computer. And, our penchant for bright and vivid colors is the reason that we're constantly posting about flowers, trees, gardens, and flower festivals.
But, one of the biggest benefits of black and white photography is its timelessness. If you look at an old photo in color, you can easily determine the decade in which it was taken by the type of color and the use of the lens. But, the pictures we took recently in Prague in black and white could have been taken a decade ago or longer. In monochrome, our eyes aren't distracted by the newness or oldness of the camera technology or other camera distortions. (It's only a small part of the reason why Ansel Adams' gorgeous scenery photographs looks like it was taken yesterday.)
When I started going through our photography for Prague, I realized that I had to do a photo spread in black and white because Prague has this same sense of timelessness. Buildings and cobblestone streets are perfectly preserved, down to the ruts used for horse-drawn carriage in the Stare Mestro (Old Town). A little further away, the city becomes stark and square, with odd monuments built to celebrate Communism and the Communist regime. There are very few buildings (other than the famous Tancici Dum or Dancing Building) that embrace modern steel and glass. The city seems to have stood still, with parts of it squarely stuck in the 14th century and others in the pre-Cold War era.