aboutWe are Akila and Patrick. Our minds (and waistlines) expand as we travel, cook, and eat our way around the world with our two dogs.
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thailand: the low-down
a wrap up

  • What we did: 30 days split up as follows: 7 days in Chiang Mai, 2 days in Lampang, 3 days in Sukhothai, 3 days in Mae Sot, 8 days in Bangkok, and 7 days in Koh Tao.
     
  • Would we do it the same way?  Yes.  We loved the northern half of Thailand and were so glad that we spent time exploring those areas especially because Lampang and Sukhothai were high on charm and low on tourists.
     
  • Indispensable item/gear:  A sturdy, comfortable pair of sandals.  We traipsed in and out of temples every single day which meant that we were constantly removing and replacing our shoes.
     
  • Best food:  The amazing meal we cooked at Asia Scenic Cooking Class in Chiang Mai.
     
  • Worst food:  The "century egg," a raw egg buried in salt, ash, and clay for several months.  When it comes out, the white is a translucent dark brown and the yolk is a creamy putrescent green.  It smells like sulphur and tastes odd, to say the least.  Neither of us were fans. 

Preserved eggs

Century eggs at the market
  • Our favorite part of Thailand:  The food culture.  Every morning, the streets opened up, petite ladies set the woks ablaze, and the aroma of stir fries and satays took over the cities, the towns, and the villages.  Pyramids and piles of ruby strawberries, sunshine pineapple, and fuchsia dragonfruit graced the sidewalks and street stalls.  From morning to night, we did as the Thai people do, and ate until we could eat no more.
     
  • The best deal:  Scuba Diving Course at Buddha View Dive Resort in Koh Tao.  Due to intense competition on Koh Tao, getting scuba certified is incredibly inexpensive, at a mere $290 USD per person, which includes free (or reduced rates) on lodging.
     
  • Best new experience:  Bathing, riding, and feeding the beautiful elephants at Patara Elephant Farm.
     
  • Worst new experience:  Dealing with the constant hassle of "stupid tourists" in Bangkok and the southern parts of Thailand.
     
  • The must see attraction:  The Chiang Mai and Lampang weekend markets.  The food, the colors, the people, the $5 USD foot massages . . . what's not to like?

Flowers for sale

Bangkok flower market
  • Most overhyped attraction:  Bangkok street food.  Everyone raves over Bangkok street food but we weren't impressed.  The quality of produce and fruits were not nearly as good as in the north and many of the stands were not as clean as those in northern Thailand.
     
  • Best city:  I vote for Lampang because I loved its untouristed charm while Patrick votes for Chiang Mai because he preferred the many activities and markets in that city.
     
  • Worst city:  Bangkok.  It just wasn't for us.
     
  • The people:  We considered writing a post titled "Smiling: Thailand's National Pasttime."  The Thai people come pretty close to matching Southerners for hospitality and politeness (assuming that you don't do something offensive, in which case you will be treated like a leper.)  We felt welcomed throughout our stay.
     
  • Best surprise: The excellent transportation network throughout Thailand.  Buses were efficient, organized, air conditioned, and clean.  The worst bus that we took was a "tourist class" bus aimed at Westerners from Bangkok to Koh Tao because the smell of the toilet seeped through the entire bus and the air conditioning barely worked.  We recommend avoiding tourist buses and, instead, taking the 2nd Class A/C private or government buses because they are cheaper and cleaner.
tuk-tuk in Bangkok
Tuk-tuk and bus
  • Biggest disappointment: The quality of diving at Koh Tao.  Though we loved Buddha View Dive School and our instructors, water clarity was poor, the coral was a dingy brown, and the fish were nice but not spectacular.  In comparison to the snorkeling we have done in the Caribbean and Hawaii, Koh Tao just didn't cut it.
     
  • Language lesson: sawasdee ka = hello; korp koon ka/krup = thank you; ka = used to finish a sentence or as acknowledgement, similar to saying okay; pad see ew = fried noodles, found on literally every street corner, made with pork, chicken, or tofu.
     
  • The big test, would we come back: Maybe in a while but we do not feel a pressing need to return as we have in Italy and New Zealand.  One month was enough to see a lot of Thailand and, if we did return, we would spend a week in the northeast to visit the Golden Triangle and a week on a live-aboard in the Similan Islands, one of the best dive sites in the world.
     
  • And, now we're off to:  Cambodia!  We are going to spend three weeks exploring Angkor, Pnomh Penh, and as many villages as we can fit into our schedule.

03/23/2010 14:35
What? You don't like Century Egg? hehe I can only take a small dose of that at a time too.

Typically, the West Coast of Thailand (Phuket's side) has better diving quality. I'm not a diver but that's what my friend told me. :)
Amy @ The Q Family's recent blog post: Los Angeles With Kids: Taste of Thailand
03/23/2010 14:54
That was a really helpful list for someone like me who has never to Thailand. Thanks guys!
Keith's recent blog post: State of the Savage: March
03/26/2010 16:22
Amy, we could only do a miniscule bit of the Century Egg!

Keith, thanks!
Akila's recent blog post: the currency of kindness
03/26/2010 22:27
I am impressed that you tried that century egg. It sounds awful. I am glad to hear that you liked Thailand overall. The last time we were there was in 2004 and we hear that it has changed a lot. Many people have been telling us that they don't like it anymore. We have such fond memories of it that I don't think we will ever go back. We don't want to ruin our impression:-) Have a great time in Cambodia. We have a friend there now that just left Thailand. He hated Thailand, but is in love with Cambodia. I hear that has changed a lot since we were there too!
Loved this post...excellent round up and information.
Dave and Deb's recent blog post: Our favorites from India: A Photo Story
03/28/2010 00:00
The century egg was featured last year in a popular cooking show here in Australia. I'd be game enough to try it. With copious amount of drink just in case.

When we visited Japan, we had the Owakudani black eggs http://www.gourmantic.com/2009/06/26/owakudani-black-eggs/ At least they were cooked!
Gourmantic's recent blog post: An Aperitivo in Lenno, Lake Como
04/07/2010 03:06
Great wrap up article. Northern Thailand is my favorite part of the "Land of Smiles". For the past couple of years I've spent at least a month there every year. I just got back a few weeks ago. I like Bangkok too, but not nearly as much as the North.

Enjoy Cambodia. Angkor Wat is awesome. The last time I was in Siem Reap was 2007, so I'm sure it's changed a lot.
05/10/2010 16:27
Congratulations on winning the April Grantourismo competition!

Century eggs is definitely an acquired taste, like beer and Scotch (which I still don't like, by the way). I've only recently learn to love the eggs. It's very good with porridge ( a thick rice soup), and with thin slices of raw young ginger.
05/11/2010 10:57
@Dave and Deb: The country has changed a lot I am sure because much of the development looks recent, but it still is a wonderful place to visit.

@Gourmantic - We might have to try that when we head to Japan next week.

@Nancie - I agree with you, Northern Thailand is definitely the best part.

@E.Thai - Thanks! I can see that it is an acquired taste but first we have to get past the look and feel of the egg. I'll have to try it again.
06/19/2010 11:13
Hi Sounds great. I wondered how you ended up getting from Chennai to Bangkok. We are flying south India to Laos probably through Bangkok and looking for any thoughts or experiences. Much thanks. We start our RTW with our two teens in August.
Anne-Marie's recent blog post: Comment on the DTs by adventuresofthedts
07/08/2010 08:37
Anne-Marie: There are tons of flights from Chennai to Bangkok. We used Thai Airways but I know that Jet Airways and others have flights into Bangkok. Let me know if you need any advice or help on South India - I've traveled through most of that region.

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